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Page 39: Massimo Bottura with his chef's Page 41: Bottura in his office
jacket right outside of his office A chandelier in the relax room
Bottura’s chef jacket with its signature rose, designed by Gucci

Today, a chef represents much more than the sum of his

recipes. A chef has to be able to transmit culture, awareness,

a sense of responsibility. Contemporary cuisine ought to

be capable of sublimating, not just sating.

Achille Filipponi: Massimo Bottura, what does it mean to AF: Modena, the land, the origins; how important are
have taken Osteria Francescana to the summit of worldwide they in the contemporary world that seems increasingly
restauration for the second time? In your view, what have been distant from those values? In the end, the project of the Os-
the fundamental steps leading to this incredible achievement? teria Francescana has changed the city, and at the same
Massimo Bottura: Every objective achieved, for me and my time involved the entire country. Is this a return for you? A
team, points to the value of all the effort that has gone into these way of coming full circle?
years of work, during which we have made a constant commitment, MB: Modena has always been an integral part of my every-
bringing our honest passion to the kitchen every day, to transmit day life, my memories, and fertile ground for my creativity.
with humility, respecting a shared ethic. I am convinced that to rea- Balsamic vinegar runs in my veins, and my bones are made of
ch exceptional goals talent counts, but only at a level of 10% with re- Parmesan cheese! My childhood memories, upon which I con-
spect to hard work, which accounts for the other 90%. There are no stantly draw in my creative process, speak of this land. You have
limits for those who are willing to learn something new every day, to be able to deeply understand your own roots, and to expand
without ever ceasing to investigate, and to work hard, very hard. on them to become the bearers of a coherent evolution. In the
kitchen we create dishes that enhance the Emilia tradition, tran-
AF: We could say that expertise and perseverance are the sforming its methods. Only extensive knowledge of one’s back-
basis of your success, but we might also say—after your book ground makes it possible to create something that is truly inno-
Bread Is Gold—that this climb has been above all the result vative and pertinent.
of a specific avant-garde and at the same time ethical vision,
that of the cuisine of Bottura. In an interview you state: “Once AF: As you can well imagine, here at Protagonist we
you have mastered the techniques of cuisine, you can go out have a nautical mindset. How important is fish for you, and
and spread your message.” What is this message conveyed by how is the cutting-edge cuisine of Bottura constructed
Bottura? around this very important ingredient?
MB: Today, a chef represents much more than the sum of his MB: Fish has a deep connection to the Italian culinary tra-
recipes. A chef has to be able to transmit culture, awareness, a sense dition. It brings to mind the fact that it is possible to transmit
of responsibility. Contemporary cuisine ought to be capable of su- the essence of our territory not just through taste but also throu-
blimating, not just sating. A recipe tells a story, of ideas, and whe- gh smell, as in a dish that transports you directly to the Adriatic
re possible it should suggest a more aware lifestyle. This is why for coast. In the recipe Sogliola mediterranea, we use three classic
some years now we have been involved, with Food for Soul, in nur- cooking techniques in a single dish. A classic, humble ingredient
turing social contexts in which to share a hot meal together, around of the territory with infinite potential that can be sublimated in
a table, nourishing body and spirit of people who are in need of help. a lucid, vivid memory, conveying the guest into a timeless frag-
Food thus becomes a vehicle of beauty, unity, and social evolution ment of Italian life.
that can give rise to a new, shared form of wellbeing.

40 Portrait Protagonist Protagonist Portrait 41