Page 103 - PROTAGONIST 136

“Everything revolves around

our guests’ wellness. We give

them our time and ask for
theirs. We need to be good

enough not to waste it.”

Fiore di Calamaro (squid flower) is the name. It was It is hard for Mellino, who still works at Quattro Passi with
among the dishes that convinced the Michelin experts to his parents and brother, a sommelier, to remember the exact
award Quattro Passi of Nerano (Naples) the third star in the moment when he chose to focus on cooking.
2024 edition of its red guide. The dish has been included “I started working for my parents in the summer months
among the most iconic Italian dishes of the past 70 years. as early as 14 years old. It was a way to spend time with them,
The squid, cut into little cones, is plated in a flower shape: on since they were always at work and I lived with my maternal
the top, there is a half sphere of caviar, with a scampi tartare grandparents. It was in those months that I acknowledged
inside, garnished with green apple, and parsley chlorophyll the passion they applied to everything they did, and this af-
all around it, recalling a lotus flower. Who wouldn’t dream of fected me. At age 23, I had completed my studies in Lyon and
enjoying it on the terrace overlooking the Gulf of Salerno, in seen the kitchens of great chefs. Since I have always been a
Marina di Cantone, where every detail – from the dish to the competitive guy, I decided to take a bet”.
landscape – is a symbol of harmony? His time in France has been crucial for his change of
The man behind its shape and substance is Fabrizio mentality. “In 2009, I understood the cultural role of a chef. I
Mellino, who has climbed the Michelin Olympus at only 33. studied everything: history, technique, motion. When I came
He is the mind and soul of a cuisine combining the memory back home, I saw everything under a different perspective”.
of time spent at the tables and stoves of the family restau- This cast of mind translates into dishes awarded three
rant (initially a pizzeria), the technique acquired at Institut stars: Il mio Giardino, inspired by his youth, Spaghetto al
Paul Bocuse of Lyon and working in France, and his deep pomodoro e olio di Itrana (spaghetti with tomato sauce and
knowledge of the area. “When I work, I follow the stand- Itrana olive oil), Tubetto ai germogli di piselli (tubetti with pea
ards of the Mediterranean diet, focusing on ingredients and sprouts), and Il carciofo, tartufi di mare e vaniglia (artichoke
a contemporary touch. I try to bring out tastes as much as with sea truffle and vanilla).
possible, while promoting my land’s products elegantly and “They are more than dishes: I seek a style and taste
respectfully,” he said. maturity”.

Protagonist Food 101