Page 66 - PROTAGONIST 119
P. 66

a
                                                                                                   For centuries the langouste (European spiny lobster, Palinurus elephas) has had
                                                                                                              pay



                                                                                                              who




                                                                                                              others

                                    LOBSTER




                                                                                                              still



                                                                                                              and




                                                                                                              broiled,








                                                                                                              others  an entourage of devotees who will stop at nothing to have their favorite food.  premium for the touch of a stellate chef. It’s a plate for the first date, and, judging  by the libidinous way it is savored, it would seem to have aphrodisiacal qualities







                                                                                                              boiled,








                                                                                                              it
                                                                                                              like



                                                                                                              who                              A Gallehaut was French Minister of Ecology François De Rugy’s  for “private councils,” many of them featuring langoustes.



                                                                                                                                               passion for the langoustes. He was recently forced to resign over
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Science has yet to confirm the existence of organoleptic fac-
                                                                                                                                               allegations of excessive spending of public funds for lavish din- tors capable of unleashing the passions between two individuals,
       TEXT BY DAVIDE PAOLINI                                                                                 those   are   There              simply  for  its  succulent,  refined,  and  exclusive  flesh,  but  espe- rably elicits images of sex. When you eat a langouste, you take it
                                                                                                                                                                                                         but the aphrodisiacal fame of certain foods, such as oysters, per-
                                                                                                                                               ners featuring enormous specimens.
                                                                                                                                                   The  passion  for  this  crustacean  is  quite  widespread,  not  sists, partially because the sensual method of eating them inexo-
                                                                                                                                               cially because it is considered prestigious and—right or wrong— in your hands and suck the meat out of the legs . . . a very erotic
                                                                                                                                               an aphrodisiac. And so it must be ordered on special occasions,  gesture that would be entirely lost if you used a knife and fork.
                                                                                                                                                                                                             But let us take a moment to debunk the belief that the spiny
                                                                                                                                               especially the first date. Its repute as an aphrodisiac dates to an-
                                                                                                                                               cient  times.  Libido-boosting  powers  were  attributed  to  it  as  far  lobster is kin to the true lobster (Homarus gammarus): with its mas-
                                                                                                                                               back as the third century BC. This belief was actually codified in  sive claws, the lobster is simply not a male langouste. The two de-
                                                                                                                                               nineteenth-century medical texts. In the early twentieth centu- capods are actually in two entirely different families but are often
                                                                                                                                               ry, Omero Rompini, a physician from Catania, author of Cucina   confused, mainly because they are both referred to as “lobsters” in
                                                                                                                                               dell’amore, published 130 recipes for aphrodisiacal dishes and menus   English (spiny or true), and also because of certain anatomical and



      64       Food                                                                                       Protagonist                          Protagonist                                                                                        Food        65
   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69   70   71