Page 125 - PROTAGONIST-134
P. 125

On these pages, Cornish turbot and tables
            at CORE by Clare Smyth, London. ©CORE


























                Food storytellers, visionaries and, first and foremost, artists.   Clare Smyth has also made a deep mark on haute cuisine. With
            These are the women who have revolutionized haute cuisine,  Core by Clare Smyth in the heart of London, she has redefined the
            winning an accolade that few can boast: three Michelin stars. An  very idea of culinary luxury, transforming humble ingredients
            achievement that goes beyond technical talent, and that celebrates  into extraordinary experiences. The proof is in his Potato, dulse
            the ability to transform each dish into a cultural, traditional and  seaweed beurre blanc, herring and trout roe where potatoes,
            creative story. Today, among the eight women who have reached  a childhood memory, explode in flavor combined with simple
            this gastronomic Olympus over the course of time, six continue  ingredients. The three Michelin stars, awarded in 2021, celebrate a
            to embody three-star excellence: Nadia Santini, Ana Roš, Clare  vision in which simplicity and refinement come together, making
            Smyth, Dominique Crenn, Anne-Sophie Pic and Hélène Darroze.  each dish a perfect expression of technique and passion.
            They are joined by Annie Féolde, the first Italian to achieve three   Overseas, Dominique Crenn has brought his poetic and
            stars at Enoteca Pinchiorri, and Carme Ruscalleda, a pioneer of  personal vision to the fore with Atelier Crenn in San Francisco,
            Catalan cuisine. Although today Féolde and Ruscalleda no longer  awarded three stars in 2018. His cuisine, deeply influenced by his
            hold the title (the former passed the reins to Riccardo Monco,  Breton roots, is distinguished by an artistic sensibility that makes
            while the latter closed the Sant Pau), their contribution paved the  each dish an emotional experience, capable of transforming food
            way for a new way of conceiving gastronomy, leaving an indelible  into a universal language. The current tasting menu focuses on
            mark on the history of taste.                             pescetarian and plant-based ingredients, with an emphasis on
                Among contemporary protagonists, Nadia Santini is a leading  products from the sea and local farms.
            figure. Her cuisine, in the Dal Pescatore restaurant in Canneto   In France, Anne-Sophie Pic continues to embody the
            sull’Oglio, is an example of balance and grace, in which Italian  excellence of the great gastronomic tradition, interpreted with a
            tradition is skillfully enhanced. It is no coincidence that Nadia’s  bold and personal spirit. Pic, in Valence, is the symbol of a culinary
            Tortelli di zucca (pumpkin Tortelli) were selected by the ‘Red’ as  dynasty that Anne-Sophie has taken to new heights. Winning the
            one of the five best dishes of the last 70 years.         three stars in 2007 was an act of continuity and innovation, as her
                Her  restaurant, deeply  rooted  in  her family history, is  a  sensibility has redefined the boundaries of taste. She is described
            project that she built together with her husband Antonio and  as a ‘tightrope walker’ because of the acrobatics to which diners’
            which, in 1996, won three Michelin stars, transforming a corner of  palates are subjected. They are given only two options: to choose
            the Mantuan countryside into a place of gastronomic pilgrimage.  between seven or ten courses.
            Further north, in the Slovenian mountains, Ana Roš has created   Hélène Darroze, on the other hand, represents the essence of
            another culinary revolution. Hiša Franko, the restaurant  contemporary French cuisine in one of the world’s most vibrant
            immersed  in  the  nature  of  the  Julian  Alps  and  inherited  from  cities, London. At the Connaught, her approach enhances the
            her husband Valter Kramar, is a workshop of creativity where  raw material with impeccable technique and a narrative ability
            every dish tells the story of the land. Local ingredients, modern  that turns each course into a tale. The three stars, obtained in
            techniques and boundless imagination have led Ana, a former  2021, are the result of a journey that weaves together tradition
            skier with aspirations as a diplomat, to obtain three stars in 2023.  and modernity, always with an eye on the absolute quality of the
            “I am not cooking my dreams. I am only cooking my reality,”  ingredients.
            writes Ana Ros, who seasonally renews her menu. Despite this,   To sit at their tables is a journey into culture, art and perfection.
            the Corn Beignets with fermented ricotta and smoked trout roe  For those seeking not only luxury but also the deeper meaning of
            and the Summer Hay-crusted Baked Potato with sour cream and  the term, these chefs offer privileged access to a universe where
            caviar have, over time, become immovable ‘classics’.      food becomes memory and inspiration.



            Protagonist                                                                                        Food        123
   120   121   122   123   124   125   126   127   128   129   130