Page 41 - Protagonist 108
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PROTAGONIST / STELLAR FLAVOURS
yielded amazing results. And if it is true that the beauty of a butter and white truffle. Used in the right quantity, the truffle
truffle lies in its uniqueness, the Breton chef has chosen to work expertly releases all its natural aroma. Genuine, nourishing
exclusively with the white Italian variety, which dominates the and splendid, it is “one of the finest foodstuffs that anybody can
others unchallenged and stands proudly apart from ‘imitations’ hope to indulge themselves with during their lifetime”, as our
from other countries. “The white Italian truffle is one of the chef loves to describe it. Léveillé focusses on the truffle hunt
last remaining ingredients that cannot be cultivated or grown that is held every year in Alba, in Piedmont, during the first half
artificially. This forces us to respect it and to keep of September. And so, starting from 1st October,
pace with the rhythms of Mother Nature, because } Tagliolini with Miramonti L’Altro always offers its patrons a
even with all the money in the world, we can’t butter and white delicious à la carte menu: soft-boiled egg in its shell
make it grow any faster”, explains Léveillé, who truffle is our garnished with chives and white truffle, a salad of
also tells us that the delicate balance between price signature dish raw meat, and marinated egg-yolk flavoured with
and quality is one of the greatest challenges to white truffle... However, the real must-try speciality
be faced. “We want our guests to be aware of the in the restaurant, apart from the classic tagliolini
extraordinary quality of Italian truffles and we try to persuade pasta, is the Risotto Miramonti l’Altro, with mild Alpine cheese
more and more people to taste them, at the same time striving and, when it is in season, the ever-present white truffle. As regards
to keep the costs as low as possible. My team and I are earning suggestions on what wine should accompany truffles, Léveillé
the trust of our customers for our honesty and professionalism: confesses: “my favourite pairing is with Champagne; perhaps it
we don’t shower a dish with shavings of truffle just for the sake of is not the best possible combination, nor even the most sensible,
squeezing some more money out of the diner.” but I like it that way. Wine can support the robustness of the
L éveillé composes his menus with a simple and well- aroma of white truffle. And considering that the white truffle
thought-out philosophy. The principle that inspires
it consists of serving truffle uncooked, and pairing it comes from Alba, it can also be enjoyed in combination with a
fine red from Piedmont - that of Domenico Clerico, for example,
is an excellent choice. I, however, am of the idea that, even more
only with ingredients of the finest quality. Not to mention that than the wine and good old Italian cooking, the real recipe is
using truffle as a last resort to revive an insipid dish is an utter always the company: sitting down at the table with a group of
waste. One of Léveillé’s ‘signature dishes’ is tagliolini pasta with friends can transform a meal into a fantastic experience.”
Adjoining page, honouring his French roots, Phillipe Léveillé blends in an Italian style of cooking and puts on a tasteful performance with
white truffle, which is one of his favourite ingredients to work with. Top, left, the signature risotto Miramonti L’Altro, made
with cheese and white truffle; right, opened in 2012, L’Altro has brought a brand new Italian gastronomy experience to Hong Kong (laltro.hk).
41N. 108 / PROTAGONIST