Page 34 - Protagonist 108

PROTAGONIST / THE EVOLUTION OF THE SPECIES

customers have already been naturally won over by his prêt-à- the ‘20s. The width is gold standard, neither wide nor narrow:

porter, others by the bespoke service. The rules governing the timeless. The flaps of the jacket do not give way in the slightest

prêt-à-porter design are cast in stone. “We set out rules that to the “too short” trend and cover the behind with decency.

we would like to remain unchangeable, determined by the Sartori wears a brown double-breasted suit with a waistcoat,

materials and the quality of the production, all made in Italy.” a good example of the recuperation of a men’s classic with

The fabrics come from all over the world, the best there is, and an extra reference to the past: the jacket only has two useful

often they are amongst the most innovative. The buttons, and two for show, in keeping with

models proposed are, on the other hand, varied } To show off the trend (still) in vogue at the end of the last
and sumptuous. They quality and creativeness the shoe, the trouser century. The cut is, however, modern, fluid
displayed is high but without affectations. All of and elegant. He wears a white shirt slightly

which remains distinctly virile but, at the same bottom must open at the chest: nor could it be otherwise, as
time, natural. We take a tour of the boutique, be no more than the top two buttonholes are missing, a touch
which has set out the summer collection. 17-18 cm wide I find particularly sophisticated. In short, to
Sartori points out that, to show off the shoe use a word which seems to be on everyone’s

and create a slender silhouette, it is necessary lips lately (without really understanding its

to give the bottom of the trousers a width of no more than 17- meaning): this is truly effortless nonchalance. The only (but

18 cm. The waistline of the jackets (all with two or just one secondary) flat note for a lover of all things traditional like

button) is surprisingly high; the lapels, almost all peaked, have myself is the “patina-finish” jackets with dark shadows around

a slit reduced to the very minimum, just as was fashionable in the stitching which are somehow unnecessary.

They are, of course, a tribute to the Maison’s patinas,
but perhaps they are a little too fashion-following or
anecdotal. The fabrics used are classic English and
Italian materials with the odd surprise here and there: a silk-
cotton tweed with a particularly satisfying hand, and a beautiful
mimosa-colour Norman linen. Sartori tells me how the sports
jackets are made of light leather: “The sleeve is assembled by
hand; it’s hard to do on leather because of the 2cm difference.”
And for bespoke garments? Sartori is proud that the former
Arnys atelier today works on Berluti models with the same
culture and tradition that distinguished it. He takes me to visit
the atelier on the first floor of the shop: there is not so much
as a trace of a sewing machine. Sartori is loyal to the Berluti
tradition as regards promotion as well: in the early nineteenth
century, old Alessandro Berluti used to publish photographs
and adverts in magazines and on the boulevards. The young
Alessandro has also salvaged the idea of the classic trunk
show, just like in the ‘50s. The principle is simple: take the
merchandise, take the models, put everything on a “lorry” (read
train or plane) and place the catwalk in the shop, much to the
delight of loyal customers and curious journalists like myself.
Altogether another matter. Sartori has already staged several
mini fashion shows in the various boutiques scattered around
the world. “A maximum of twenty pieces, preferably those in
the boutique locally, so the customers can immediately pick
up the product they have seen which they liked.” “The models
in the shows,” Sartori reveals, “are mostly customers who lend
themselves to the “game”. Berluti has always established very
intimate relationships with its customers, who become our
ambassadors. This way of sharing is one of the real strengths of
our Maison.” The “Berluti man” is all this and more.

Top, two-button unlined cashmere jacket and double pleated trousers in wool and cashmere, “È Mio” briefcase in aged-effect
mud colour calfskin with a “Mini È Mio” matching bag. Right, Sartori in front of the windows of the Parisian
Berluti boutique at 14, Rue de Sèvres. Born in Biella, the 48-year-old specialised in textile engineering (www.berluti.com).

34 PROTAGONIST / N. 108